A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro

 

Finding the Real Lisbon: A Taste of Tradition at A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro

In a city as popular as Lisbon, it can feel like a challenge to step away from the polished tourist trail and find something truly authentic. We often search for that "local spot," a place that feels honest, unpretentious, and steeped in the city's true character. If this is the Lisbon you're looking for, then pull up a chair at A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro.

Located on the Rua dos Sapateiros in the Baixa district, this restaurant is a living relic of old-school Lisbon. Its name alone tells a story of its dual heritage: "A Licorista" was once a liqueur shop founded in the early 20th century, while "O Bacalhoeiro" was the traditional codfish shop next door. In 1997, these two historic establishments merged, creating the beloved institution that exists today.

This isn't just a place with history; it's a place where history was made. The original liqueur shop was a regular haunt of Portugal’s most celebrated poet, Fernando Pessoa He would often stop by for a glass of ginjinha or liqueur, and one of the few known photographs of the writer was taken right here Today, a tile panel recreating that moment hangs on the wall, a quiet tribute to the restaurant's cultural soul.

But the main reason to visit is for a taste of honest, traditional Portuguese cooking. As the name suggests, codfish (bacalhau) is the star of the show. The menu features beloved preparations like 'Bacalhau à Minhota' and grilled cod, served in generous portions that promise to satisfy.Reviewers consistently praise the delicious, authentic food, highlighting dishes like octopus rice and fresh sardines as well. It’s the kind of quality meal at a fair price that locals appreciate, with a main course and a glass of wine often costing less than 20 euros.

Part of the restaurant's "old-school" charm is its service. You won't find overly effusive pleasantries here. Instead, the service is often described as simple, efficient, and direct. The focus is on the food and the lively, authentic atmosphere of a place populated by locals.

In a world of fleeting trends, A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro stands as a proud testament to tradition. It’s a place to disconnect from the tourist hustle and connect with the simple, flavorful heart of Lisbon. For a meal that feels like a genuine piece of the city's history, look no further.